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The Golden Threads of Assam: Showcasing the Rich Heritage of Assamese Silk

Sanchayeeta Parashar
Sanchayeeta Parashar
Sanchayeeta is an aspiring writer from Assam who's passionate about exploring different tribes and sharing the beauty of their cultures with her readers. She is a resident writer for The Indegenous.

Assamese Silk: Heritage and Craftsmanship

A set of pure Muga Mekhela Sador, a Riha, a Seleng Sador and Eri Sador are some of the primary outfits one can find in the wardrobe of any Assamese household. Silk holds a significant position in the Indigenous cultural outfits of the Assamese society. Ranging from outfits worn during Bihu celebrations to wedding costumes, silk is an indispensable component and it is undoubtedly the pride of Assam. The golden lustrous Muga silk, ubiquitous to the state, holds a unique position in the global platform.

Here is a brief account of the pride of Assam, the Assamese Silk.

HOW DID SERICULTURE BEGIN IN ASSAM

The skill of rearing silkworms to fetch silk yarn is called sericulture. The Chinese civilization was the pioneer of this art form. Documentary evidence suggests that silk made roads to India through a matrimonial alliance between India and China.

  • Ramayana mentions that Magadh, Amba and Paundra were the chief centers of sericulture.
  • Arthashastra also documents the prevalence of sericulture in the Kamrup district.
  • Muga silk sericulture earned patronage under Kirats (100-250 A.D.) followed by the Loches, Kacharis and finally the Ahom kings.
  • Chand Saudagar is credited as the pioneer in commercializing the trade of Muga silk.
  • The English initiated the trade of Muga silk in Europe after signing a deed of trade with King Gaurinath Singha in A.D 1703.
  • A report on the export of Eri silk to Lhasa through Hadira Chaki at the Assam border is also available.

Assam has distinction in producing four unique types of Silk

  1. Muga silk
  2. Eri Silk
  3. Tasar silk
  4. Mulberry Silk

1. MUGA SILK

Muga silk - Wikipedia

Muga silk known for its golden lustrous fibers is Indigenous and ubiquitous to the North east in general and Assam in particular as it is the sole producer of 99.98% of Muga silk of the nation. This silk is produced by the insect called Antheraea assamensis.

The process of rearing Muga silk is very unique in the sense that it is semi-domesticated.

  • The worms towards the end of their larval period crawl down. They are made to spin cocoons indoors.
  • When ready to spin the cocoons once again they are collected and placed on another tree. This behavior helps the keepers to condition the caterpillars.
  • Each insect is placed in a container made of straws known as Jalifor the formation of the cocoon. This is called Muga silk.
Muga Silk & Mekhela Chador (Assam) – My Grandma's Legacy

The Muga silkworm feeds on the Persea bombycina and Litsae polyantha which are widely distributed in Northeast India.

Muga silk shimmers in golden color and is available in all the shades of raw gold which attracts fashion designers and textile experts. Every Assamese woman is fond of Muga dresses and it's her pride to wear it at any function.

In Assam, Muga is primarily cultivated in the following places

  • Darrang
  • Dibrugarh
  • Dhemaji
  • Majuli
  • Goalpara
  • Kamrup
  • Lakhimpur
  • Jorhat

To achieve a better silk quality multiple strands are woven together to form the "Twisted silk".

2. ERI SILK

If you happen to be in an Assamese household for a day during winters, you are sure to spot an Eri Sador in the wardrobe. Samia ricini silkworm is reared for Eri silk. They feed on castor and kesseru plantations which are abundant in Assam.

An Eri fabric gains a better shine with each wash. It is often blend with other fabrics such as cotton, wool, or jute to give it a unique look. It provides a warm and cozy comfort during winters.

The potential areas of Eri growers in Assam are spread in

  • Kamrup
  • Dhemaji
  • Kamrup
  • Sivasagar
  • Karbi Anglong
  • Golaghat

3. TASAR SILK

The tradition is mostly restricted to tribal communities.

There are two type

  • Tropical tasar which feeds on Arjuna tree, Saal Tree and Bogori tree.
  • Temeprate tasar silkworms feed on Acutissima caranthers, Quercus semecarpifolia and Quercus himalayana.

It is highly textured and can be easily dyed. Upholstery, drapery, bed covers, decorations and accessories are some of the wide home furnishings of tasar silk.

4. MULBERRY SILK

Because of its elegant luster and shine, Mulberry silk, called pat in Assamese, is often referred to as the queen of silk. It has rich color absorbent properties making it the first choice of printers. The silk is reared from the silkworm Bombyx mori. In Assam Pat is reared in the following places

  • Goalpara
  • Jorhat
  • Sonitpur
  • Darrang
  • Lakhimpur

O MURE LAHORI TAAT OR XAALOT BOHI LOI (My dear looks graceful when she sits on the weaving machine, immersed in spinning the yarn from silk cocoons)

File:Taat Xaal.jpg - Wikimedia Commons

Every traditional Assamese household is supposed to have a Taat Xaal (a handloom machine) in the yard where the daughters and daughters-in-law of the family weave clothes from the silk cocoons. Assamese women are excellent weavers and traditionally they prepare their garments. Spinning involves drawing the fiber material of the desired size, adding the required twist and then winding the yarn onto the bobbin.

Whenever an Assamese lady gracefully drapes herself in a pure Muga silk Mekhela Sador and gets decked up with Gamkharu in her wrist, Junbiri, Golpta in her neck, hangs a Kerumoni Thuria in her earlobes, decorates her bun with a string of Kopou Phool and puts a Gogona in it, she not only carries elegance with each walk but also showcases the grace of the land she hails from, her Axomi Aai, her mother Assam.

REFERENCES

(Chakravorty, 186)